Men's Coats: Double-Breasted and Single-Breasted Wool Coats

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Men's clothing · Coats

A men's coat is the garment that changes least over the years and therefore should be chosen well once. The real variables are three: the percentage of wool, the number of buttons on the chest and how long it is. Everything else is a matter of taste.

Double-breasted or single-breasted

The double-breasted coat overlaps two layers of fabric at the front. It provides more warmth exactly where needed, closes more securely against the wind and has a more formal line with broader shoulders: it is the coat to wear over a suit. The peak lapel - the point rising towards the shoulder, as on our Bharnaba coats - is the detail that gives it a stronger character.

The single-breasted coat is slimmer and more versatile: wear it over a suit as well as over a sweater and jeans, and it does not demand a particular posture. If it is your only coat and has to do everything, the single-breasted style is the safest choice.

The percentages, from our labels

Gi Capri makes the double-breasted coat from 90% wool and 10% cashmere, with a polyester lining: it is the classic combination of the Italian tailored coat, where cashmere provides softness and wool provides warmth. The elegant model from the same house instead uses 90% wool and 10% polyamide, which holds its shape better and creases less while travelling.

Alessandro Dell'Acqua cuts the single-breasted coat along clean lines, while Peter Hadley focuses on classic wool. For damp cold, Peuterey offers a leather jacket with a shearling collar and checked wool cloth with a removable bib - not overcoats, but they handle the same days in a more casual register.

The check we make in the boutique. Let your arms hang at your sides: the shoulder seam should end on the bone, not beyond it. It is the only measurement the tailor cannot alter. Sleeves and length can be shortened; the shoulder cannot.

How long

Knee-length is the classic and safest length: it covers the suit jacket without letting it show, and does not hinder walking. Above the knee, by a few centimetres, is the most modern proportion and looks better on shorter men. Below the knee is a style choice, very elegant and demanding: it calls for substantial shoes and a certain height.

The rule we always give: the coat must cover the jacket. If you will wear a suit underneath, try it on with the jacket, not just a shirt. The rest of the department is in men's clothing.

When the cold is truly intense

A wool coat is a city garment for temperatures above freezing. When you need protection from rain and wind, the answer is men's down jackets, which cover the technical side of your wardrobe. The complete overview, style by style, is in the men's outerwear guide.

Frequently asked questions

Is a double-breasted or single-breasted coat better?

A double-breasted coat is warmer and more formal: two layers of fabric across the chest, a broader shoulder line, and ideal over a suit. A single-breasted coat is more versatile and works with everything, from a suit to a sweater and jeans. If the coat is to be your only one, a single-breasted style covers more situations.

How long should a men's coat be?

Knee length is the classic and safest option because it covers a suit jacket. A few centimetres above the knee is the most modern proportion and works better for those who are not tall. Below the knee is very elegant but demanding: it calls for height and suitable shoes.

What percentage of wool should a men's coat contain?

90% or more for a true winter coat. The remaining 10% changes its character: with cashmere, the fabric feels softer to the touch; with polyamide, it holds its shape better and wrinkles less. Below 50% wool, you are entering the realm of the overcoat, which is a different garment.

How can you tell if a coat is the right size?

At the shoulder: with your arms at your sides, the seam should sit on the shoulder bone and not extend beyond it. It is the only measurement a tailor cannot alter - sleeves and length can be adjusted. And it should be tried on over what you will wear underneath, including a jacket.

Does a wool coat protect against rain?

Not much. Wool cloth withstands light rain and dries well, but in a downpour it becomes soaked and heavy. For rain and wind, you need technical garments with a membrane or a down jacket with a treated outer fabric: they are two different categories, and it is better to have both rather than expect one garment to do everything.