How to clean Timberland: nubuck, patent leather, and suede

Come pulire le Timberland: guida della boutique Vittorio Citro

Shoe care · Timberland

Timberland boots should be cleaned dry first and then, only if necessary, with very little water: use a soft brush for dust, an eraser for stains, a barely damp cloth over the entire shoe, let it dry away from any heat source, and finish with a protective spray. The method changes with the leather, though. Brush the nubuck of the classic yellow boot and never polish it, wipe and condition smooth leather, while suede is the most delicate of the three and tolerates water the least.

To identify what you have on your feet, run a finger over the upper: if it leaves a darker mark and the nap changes direction, it is nubuck or suede; if your finger glides over it and the surface reflects light, it is smooth leather. The 6-Inch boot in the color Timberland calls wheat, the familiar yellow, is made of nubuck. So is the black 6-Inch from the Timberland men's line: applying black polish is the quickest way to ruin it.

What you need, and what you don't

You need a soft-bristle brush (or a crepe brush for nubuck), a suede eraser, a light-colored microfiber cloth, paper to fill the shoe while it dries, and a waterproofing spray suitable for the material. We do not sell care products in the boutique: Timberland has its own line, with a foaming cleaner for nubuck and suede (Renewbuck), a cleaner and conditioner for smooth leather (Boot Sauce), and a water-repellent spray (Balm Proofer). Other brands work too, as long as the product is made for that type of leather.

These cause damage instead: cream polish on nubuck, kitchen degreaser, a wire brush used forcefully, and bleach on the white stitching.

1. Timberland nubuck boots: the yellow 6-Inch

Nubuck is cowhide lightly buffed on the grain side, creating the short velvet-like nap that rises under your fingers. It absorbs more dirt than smooth leather, but with proper care it can look almost new again.

Mud and dust. If the dirt is wet, wait for it to dry: rubbing it while damp pushes it into the nap. Once dry, remove it with a brush, using short strokes in the same direction. For marks and dark streaks, rub the eraser firmly, then brush again.

Stubborn stains. This is where a specific cleaner is needed. Timberland insists on a point that almost no one follows: apply the product with a cloth over the entire shoe, not just the stain, otherwise the treated area dries to a different shade and leaves a mark. Wet nubuck darkens and lightens as it dries: if the entire shoe gets wet, it will become uniform again.

Drying and nap. Leave it to air-dry, away from direct sunlight. Only once the shoe is completely dry should you brush it again to raise the nap: this action, more than the cleaner, restores the yellow's full, matte appearance.

Men's Timberland Premium 6-Inch in wheat-yellow nubuck, waterproof boot with a brown padded collar
The men's Premium 6-Inch in wheat yellow: nubuck, so use a brush and never polish.

For white salt marks after a few days in the mountains, use a cloth lightly moistened with water and a little white vinegar. Test first on an inconspicuous spot: Timberland recommends this for every product.

2. Polished leather and smooth leather

This is the easiest leather to care for. Among the models we carry, it is used for the sand-colored Premium 6-Inch in polished leather from the Timberland women's line, the burgundy Heritage 6-Inch with brogue detailing, and the Stone Street platform boat shoes.

Remove dust with a dry cloth, then wipe with a slightly damp cloth; if the dirt persists, use a smooth-leather cleaner. Once dry, the leather should be conditioned with a balm or cream, applied in a thin layer, and polished with a clean cloth. Two or three times a season, not just once in November.

Two warnings from the brand's instructions. Products for smooth leather must not be used on nubuck and suede: they flatten the nap and make it stiff. Wax-based protectors, on the other hand, are intended only for waxed or oiled leather and can darken it: test first on a hidden area.

Women's Timberland Stone Street boat shoe with a platform in brown polished leather
The Stone Street platform boat shoe: polished leather, so use a damp cloth and conditioner.

Creases on the toe cannot be eliminated: they are the mark of wear, as with any leather shoe. They can be softened by keeping the shoe in shape when you are not wearing it.

3. Suede Timberland

Suede is related to nubuck, but its nap is longer and more open: it stains sooner and is harder to restore. The tools are the same (brush, eraser and specific cleaner applied across the entire surface), with one additional rule: as little water as possible.

For grease stains, a tried-and-tested home remedy works: apply talcum powder or cornstarch to the stain, leave it overnight, then remove it with a brush. On suede, protective spray is not optional; apply it before the first outing. The rest is in our suede guide.

What never to do

The washing machine. Not even at thirty degrees, not even inside a pillowcase. Soaking deforms the leather, causes it to shrink and weakens the adhesives between the upper and sole.

The radiator, hairdryer and heater. Timberland states it clearly: no hairdryers or direct heat. The leather dries out, cracks at the creases and cannot be restored. Stuff them with paper and wait, even two days.

Harsh soap. Dish soap, degreasers and alcohol remove the leather's natural oils and leave light marks on nubuck.

Clean only the stain. It's the most common mistake with yellow boots: the cleaned patch remains lighter than the rest. A uniformly slightly worn shoe is better than one with patchy marks.

Waterproof them: before you go out, not after the first rain

Many of our models, such as the 6-Inch Premium, are constructed to be waterproof, with sealed seams: your feet stay dry. The spray serves another purpose: protecting the surface. Without it, nubuck absorbs water, darkens and holds onto stains.

Timberland's instructions: the shoe should be clean and dry; apply the spray in light back-and-forth strokes without soaking it, including the seams; then leave it to dry for a long time (the brand recommends four to twenty-four hours depending on the product) and brush the nap. Reapply the protection regularly: about every three weeks if you wear them often, and always after cleaning them with detergent.

The boutique's advice. Apply the spray the same evening your Timberlands arrive home, before wearing them. Rain on untreated nubuck leaves the most difficult mark to remove, and it gives no warning.

Timberland Stone Street 6-Inch women's wheat-colored platform lace-up waterproof boot
The Stone Street 6-Inch with a platform: hairy leather like the classic version, so use the same spray.

The laces and the sole

Always remove the laces before cleaning, otherwise a strip of dirt remains underneath. Hand-wash them in lukewarm water with a little mild soap and leave them to dry flat. If they are frayed at the tips, replace them: a new lace can tidy up a boot more than any cleaner.

The rubber sole is the only part that can be wet without problems: use a toothbrush, water and a little soap, with circular movements. Pay attention to the edge where the rubber meets the leather, because that is where water can seep into the nubuck and stain it. Timberland also offers a sole stain remover (Sole Brightener) to restore the rubber to its original colour.

How to keep them in shape

When you are not wearing them, insert a wooden shoe tree, preferably cedar, which absorbs moisture and keeps the toe extended; alternatively, use paper. If possible, alternate them with another pair: a day of rest allows the leather to dry from perspiration.

At the end of the season, store them clean and dry in a fabric bag: plastic traps moisture. The care rules are different for shearling, and you can find them in the guide on how to clean UGG; the enemy, however, is the same: heat.

If you are still choosing your pair, the available styles are in the Timberland collection, and you can find the right size with the Timberland size guide. If you want to compare them with other rain boots, browse our women's boots, men's boots and seasonal boots guide; for boat shoes, see the guide to Timberland boat shoes.

Frequently asked questions

Can Timberland boots be washed in a washing machine?

No. Soaking deforms and shrinks the leather and weakens the adhesives between the upper and sole. Clean Timberland boots by hand: use a brush and dry eraser, then a barely damp cloth or a cleaner specifically designed for the material, applied to the entire boot.

How do you remove mud from yellow Timberland boots?

Let the mud dry, then remove it with a soft brush using short strokes. Treat any remaining marks with a suede eraser. If detergent is needed, apply it to the entire boot, not just the stain, otherwise a ring may remain. Once dry, brush it again to lift the nubuck nap.

How do you dry wet Timberland boots?

Remove the laces, stuff the boots with paper, and let them dry at room temperature, away from radiators, hair dryers, and direct sunlight. Heat dries out and cracks the leather irreversibly. They may need one or two days.

How often should Timberland boots be waterproofed?

The first time, before wearing them. Then about every three weeks if you wear them often, and always after cleaning them with detergent. Apply the spray to clean, dry boots in light coats without saturating them, and let them dry thoroughly before going outside.

How can I tell whether my Timberland boots are made of nubuck or smooth leather?

Run a finger over the upper. If it leaves a darker mark and the nap changes direction, it is nubuck or suede and should be treated with a brush and products for suede leather. If your finger glides smoothly and the surface reflects light, it is smooth leather, which can be cleaned with a damp cloth and conditioned with a balm.

Can you use shoe polish on Timberland boots?

Only on smooth or polished leather. On nubuck and suede, polish and products for smooth leather flatten the nap, harden it, and leave dark stains that can no longer be removed.

Editorial team at Vittorio Citro Boutique, Roccapiemonte. We have been selling fashion since 1917.

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