Coat, down jacket, or jacket: how to choose your outerwear

Cappotti, piumini e giubbotti uomo autunno inverno 2026 2027 — Vittorio Citro

Seasonal guide · Fall-Winter 2026-2027

Outerwear is the garment people spend the most on and choose least wisely, because they try it on in a shop at twenty degrees and wear it in five. In the boutique, the first question we ask isn't which style you like, but how cold it gets where you live and how much time you spend outdoors. From there, the options narrow down on their own, and the right choice is almost never the one the customer had in mind.

This guide starts with two details on the label that almost nobody reads: what's inside and what's on the outside. These are the two factors that distinguish a garment that will truly keep you warm from one that only feels warm in the fitting room.

What's inside: down, feathers, padding and synthetics

A down jacket's label almost always lists two figures, for example 80% down and 20% feathers. They're not the same, and that's where the difference lies. Down is the soft fluff beneath the feathers that traps air: it's what keeps you warm. Feathers have a quill, the rigid central shaft, which adds volume and structure but provides much less insulation.

The number to look at. The higher the down percentage, the warmer the garment is for the same weight. An 80/20 ratio—as in the Emporio Armani Blouson or the MC2 Saint Barth down jacket—is a mark of quality. A 50/50 ratio, also found in dependable pieces such as the Kappa 1967 Camden, provides noticeably less warmth and is suitable for mid-season, not January. If that number isn't on the product page, ask.

L'padding is the classic synthetic insulation used in mid-season jackets, such as Colmar's hybrid styles: it provides less warmth than down at the same thickness, but is water-resistant and costs less. It is the right choice for a garment you wear every day and put through its paces.

Technical synthetics are another category altogether. PRIMALOFT, which People of Shibuya uses across almost its entire range, was developed to do what down cannot: keep insulating even when wet. Wet down collapses and stops keeping you warm; synthetic insulation does not. If your winters are damp rather than freezing, this matters more than the down percentage.

What’s on the outside: the membrane, and why “GORE-TEX” isn’t enough

This is where the costliest misunderstanding lies. Seeing GORE-TEX on the label doesn’t mean the garment is waterproof. GORE-TEX INFINIUM — used in People of Shibuya Kore, Kaika and Hiroki jackets — is windproof and water-repellent, not strictly waterproof: it withstands light rain and wind, but not a downpour.

The three-layer technical fabric with membrane used in the same brand’s PM981 line is the most protective construction: outer fabric, membrane and lining laminated together, keeping water out while letting body vapor escape. It’s what you need for a walk in the rain.

In between is the waterproof membrane applied to the reverse side, as on Colmar stretch jackets or the Peuterey Bunnari bomber: it offers good protection and weighs little, but it’s a city solution, not a mountain one.

The boutique’s advice. If you’re buying just one, consider your commute, not your wardrobe. If you walk ten minutes to your car, you need warmth, and down wins. If you spend an hour outdoors in the rain, you need a proper membrane and synthetic insulation. They’re two different garments, and neither does the other’s job well.

When wool makes sense

The wool coat doesn’t compete with a down jacket on warmth; it competes on formality. It’s the layer you wear over a jacket without creasing it, and the right choice for occasions where a down jacket would look out of place.

When it comes to wool, the name that matters is the mill, not just the brand. The Arka jacket by People of Shibuya is made from Vitale Barberis Canonico virgin wool, from one of Biella's historic mills: it's the kind of detail that explains a price difference that might otherwise seem arbitrary.

The peacoat is the shorter, more practical version of the overcoat: double-breasted and hip-length, it originated in the navy and is designed for outdoor wear. Those by Emporio Armani are made from virgin tweed wool, one with a corduroy collar. If a long overcoat feels like too much, the peacoat is the answer.

Leather, a different kind of purchase

A leather jacket isn't bought for the cold; it's bought to last. Lamb nappa — the kind used by Gallotti — is the softest leather and the most expensive to work with, and you recognize it by touch before sight.

On the Fionia bomber jackets by Peuterey, the color is sprayed directly onto the nappa leather and finished by hand: this means every piece has slightly different shades, and over the years those irregularities become more pronounced rather than fading. It is the opposite of a printed garment, and should be chosen with that in mind.

The Murdo model has a removable shearling collar, the most practical detail in the category: shearling from December to February, remove the collar from March, and the garment works for two seasons instead of one.

The types, each in a line

Coat: formal, wool, worn over a jacket. Down jacket: the warmest for its weight, but vulnerable to water. Parka: long and hooded, a compromise between warmth and protection. Bomber: short, waist-length, the most casual and easiest to wear. Peacoat: a short, double-breasted coat, formal but practical. Hybrid jacket: padded at the front with knit fabric at the back or on the sleeves, designed for those who are constantly coming and going.

The full selection is in men's coats, men's down jackets and jackets and blousons.

Sizing, and the mistake we see most often

Try on your outerwear with the clothes you'll wear underneath. It seems obvious, and almost no one does it: you try it on with a shirt in September, then in January, with a heavyweight sweater, your shoulders feel tight and you can't raise your arms.

The point to check is the shoulder seam: it should sit on the shoulder bone, not beyond it. On a deliberately designed oversized garment, it sits lower by design, as stated in the product details; if that isn't stated and it still sits low, it's simply too big. The sleeve should cover the wrist when your arm hangs straight at your side, but no further.

How to wear them

Down jackets can and should be washed. Use a delicate cycle, cold water and a specialist detergent, and - this is the step almost everyone skips - two or three tennis balls in the tumble dryer on a low heat setting: they break up clumps of down that would otherwise stay compacted and leave cold spots. A down jacket dried without being shaken never goes back to how it was.

Wool should be brushed, not washed, except at the end of the season. A stiff brush after every wear removes dust and lint, extending the fabric's life more than any dry cleaning.

Leather just needs to be left alone: no radiators, no plastic bags, and a nourishing cream once a year. If it gets wet, let it air-dry away from heat sources - direct heat makes it stiff and crack.

For the rest of the men's winter wardrobe — the three pairs of jeans you really need and the return of pleated trousers — see our separate guide: autumn-winter trousers and jeans.

Frequently asked questions

What's the difference between down and feathers on the label?

Down is the soft, fluffy underlayer beneath the feathers that traps air: it's the part that keeps you warm. Feathers have a stiff central shaft and add volume, but provide much less insulation. That's why an 80% down, 20% feather filling is much warmer than a 50/50 blend, assuming the same thickness and weight. It's the first number to check when comparing two down jackets at different price points.

Is a GORE-TEX garment waterproof?

Not necessarily, and the distinction is often misunderstood. GORE-TEX INFINIUM is windproof and water-repellent: it can handle light rain, but not a storm. For true waterproofing, you need a three-layer construction with a laminated membrane. If the garment needs to protect you from heavy rain, check which type it is, because the brand name alone won't tell you.

Is down or synthetic insulation better?

Down provides more warmth for its weight, but if it gets wet, it collapses and stops insulating. Technical synthetics such as Primaloft provide slightly less warmth but still work when wet. Down wins in a cold, dry winter; synthetic insulation wins in a damp, rainy one.

How do you wash a down jacket?

Machine wash on a delicate cycle, in cold water, using a detergent specifically for down garments. The crucial step is drying: tumble dry on low heat with two or three tennis balls to break up the clumps of down. Without this step, the filling stays compacted and the garment loses much of its insulating power.

What size should you get in a coat?

Choose your usual size, trying it on with the clothes you plan to wear underneath: a heavyweight sweater can change how a size feels. The key reference point is the shoulder seam, which should sit on your shoulder bone. If the product details specify an oversized fit, the shoulder is designed to drop; if they don't and it still drops, the garment is simply too big.

What is the most versatile outerwear piece if you buy only one?

It depends on your route, not your wardrobe. If you take short trips in dry cold weather, a down jacket is the better choice. If you spend a long time outdoors in the rain, you need a membrane and synthetic insulation. If you wear a jacket underneath, you need a wool coat or a peacoat. These are three different garments, and none does the others' job well.

Edited by Vittorio Citro Boutique, Roccapiemonte. We have been selling fashion since 1917.

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