Women's coat: size, fit, and what the label says

Cappotto donna: la taglia, la vestibilità e cosa dice l'etichetta

Boutique guide · Women's coats

The question we're asked most often in the store isn't which style is fashionable: it's which size to choose. And the answer is always the same, and it's not what people expect. Choose a coat by the shoulders, not the waist: if the seam falls where the shoulder ends, the size is right even if the body looks fuller. If it falls on the arm, the coat is too big, and no belt will fix it.

The second question concerns the label: what does “wool and cashmere” mean, and how much cashmere is really in it? Below you'll find the percentages we see on the garments we currently have, the rule for choosing your size and the right style depending on your body shape. The selection is in women's coats.

“Wool and cashmere”: what is really on the label

A pure cashmere coat does exist, but it's rare, costs as much as a small appliance and gets damaged over a winter of commuting by metro. What you actually buy is a blend, and the difference between one blend and another lies in the percentages - they're written there; you just need to read them.

Here's what the labels say on the coats we currently have in the boutique. The Marella MLLPAVIDO, the one we recommend most often, is 90% virgin wool and 10% cashmere. The Pinko Verici long coat is 75% wool, 20% nylon and 5% cashmere. The Emporio Armani coat with lapels and belt is 48% virgin wool, 32% viscose, 12% polyamide and 8% alpaca. A checked Twinset peacoat is 71% wool and 26% polyester. And the Marella Andina long coat is 100% wool.

How to read them in practice. Cashmere under 15% isn't there to keep you warm: it changes the hand, meaning how the fabric feels under your fingers and against your neck. If you're looking for warmth, look at the wool content - above 70%, the coat really does retain heat - and the fabric weight. A small amount of synthetic fibre isn't a flaw: nylon and polyamide help the garment hold its shape in areas prone to stretching, while a coat made entirely from a fine natural fibre loses its line sooner. Be wary instead of blends in which acrylic exceeds wool: there, the percentage reveals a garment from a different tier.

Alpaca deserves a line of its own, because it appears more and more often. It is warmer than wool at the same weight and has a long, lustrous pile that you can recognize at a glance; even in a blend containing just 8%, it changes the look of the fabric. Double cloth, which you will see mentioned on many Marella coats, is not a fibre but a construction: two fabrics joined without a lining, with the edges finished by hand. This is why some coats fall straight as a board and do not need to be lined.

The size: where you really get it wrong

A coat is the only garment you try on over everything else, and almost no one tries it on that way. The right benchmark is what you'll wear underneath in January: a medium-weight sweater, not a September t-shirt. If the coat is perfect over a shirt but tight over a sweater, it's too small, and it will stay in your wardrobe in December.

The three measurements to check, in order: the shoulder, where the seam should fall on the bone, not the arm; the sleeve, which should cover the wrist and reach halfway across the back of the hand, one centimetre longer than a jacket; and the chest, which, when fastened, should allow you to cross your arms without pulling.

With a double-breasted coat, one more rule applies: it adds volume by nature, because it overlaps two layers of fabric at the front. Those with broader shoulders or a fuller bust often find it more bulky than it appears on the mannequin, in which case a belted single-breasted coat does a better job.

Our coat sizes range from 38 to 50, but the fit varies from one brand to another: a 42 Marella and a 42 Pinko do not fit the same, while oversized lines are numbered S-M-L. Brand-specific charts are available in the size converter; if you're still unsure, send us your chest and shoulder measurements - we have the garment in store and can measure it.

The rule of roominess, which is the opposite of what you might think. You don't go up a size “to feel comfortable.” A coat one size larger has the shoulder in the wrong place and a low armhole, and you can tell from a distance that it isn't yours. If you need more room, choose a roomy design - a caban, an oversized style, or a dropped-shoulder design - in your usual size. These are two different purchases, not the same purchase with a different number.

The right style, depending on your shape

The belted single-breasted coat is the easiest and most versatile: it defines the waist, elongates the figure and suits virtually everyone. If there is only one coat in your wardrobe, this is the one we recommend. In our selection, it is also the most widely represented style, from the Marella Eolico to the Pinko Citiso in double-faced fabric.

The double-breasted coat is more formal and more structured: perfect over a suit, and excellent on a triangle-shaped figure because it balances the shoulders. On a petite figure, it tends to overwhelm unless it is short.

The peacoat — short, made of heavy wool, with visible buttons — is the garment that solves everyday dressing: it fits in the car, does not crease, and works with trousers and jeans. It is also the only style on this list that looks good with wide legs without adding weight.

The long coat, below the knee, is the most elegant and the warmest, and elongates the figure when left open in a vertical line. Buttoned and belted on a shorter figure, it shortens the silhouette: there, the midi works better, ending just below the knee and offering the most practical length for everyday life.

The poncho is the middle ground for the transitional season and for those who drive: it covers the shoulders without constricting the arms. Ours are knitted, and there is also one in pure cashmere — which makes sense for this type of garment, because it does not need to hold the shape of a shoulder.

What distinguishes a coat that lasts from one that fades

The weight of the fabric. A serious winter coat has weight: if it feels like a shirt when you lift it off the hanger, it will keep you as warm as a shirt. It is the quickest check you can make in a store, and you do not need to read anything.

The lining, or its absence. A well-made double-faced fabric coat has no lining because it does not need one: the edges are finished and the fabric is compact on both sides. A lined coat, on the other hand, should be inspected inside: if the lining is well sewn and moves smoothly over the sleeves, the garment is well constructed; if it pulls at the shoulders, it will tear there within two winters.

The stitching and buttons. The buttonholes should be clean, and the buttons sewn with a shank, meaning a small space between the button and the fabric that allows you to fasten the coat without pulling. It is the detail that distinguishes a coat designed to be buttoned from one designed to be photographed open.

When it comes to color, the three that stand the test of time best remain camel, midnight blue and dark gray. But this season also brings burgundy and chocolate to the fore, as we wrote in our guide to fall-winter colors.

What to wear underneath, without adding bulk

A coat only looks right when what's underneath is right, and this is where silhouettes most often go wrong. A cable-knit sweater under a fitted coat creates volume exactly where it's not needed: under a structured coat, choose a fine-gauge knit, a slim turtleneck or a shirt. A substantial sweater works under a generously cut coat, or on its own. We covered this in detail in our knitwear guide.

For mid-season, when a coat feels too heavy, there is the lightweight puffer jacket and faux fur jackets, which are making a strong return this year — see also the piece on faux fur.

How to care for a coat so it lasts ten winters

The hanger should be shaped and wide, and made of wood: thin metal ones concentrate all the weight on two points and leave two bumps on the shoulders within a season. It's the most common mistake and the hardest to fix.

Brush it, don't wash it. A bristle brush after every two or three wears removes dust and lint and keeps the fabric's nap smooth: that's what makes a three-year-old coat look new. Have it dry-cleaned once a season, at the end of winter before storing it, not in November.

Store it in the dark and covered, in a cotton bag, never plastic, which traps moisture. Check the pockets too: a forgotten sweet in March becomes a moth problem in September.

The other guides for the season: autumn-winter trends, boots and trousers.

Frequently asked questions

What size should you get for a women's coat?

The same size you wear in other garments, but try it on over a medium-weight sweater - that is how you will wear it in January. The shoulder is the decisive point: the seam should fall where the shoulder bone ends, not on the arm. The sleeve should cover the wrist and reach halfway down the back of the hand. Do not size up for comfort: if you need more room, choose a style designed with a relaxed fit in your usual size.

How much cashmere is in a "wool and cashmere" coat?

Almost always between 5 and 20 percent. In the garments we carry in the boutique, the actual percentages range from 10% cashmere with 90% virgin wool to blends with 5% cashmere, 75% wool, and 20% nylon. A 100% cashmere coat exists, but it is rare, very expensive, and delicate: that low percentage is not there to provide warmth, but to change the fabric's hand and add softness around the neck.

Is a wool coat better than a synthetic-blend coat?

For warmth, the wool content matters: above 70%, the coat really keeps you warm. Synthetic fibers in low percentages - nylon, polyamide, polyester - do not reduce quality; in fact, they help the garment maintain its shape in areas subject to stress. Pay close attention when acrylic exceeds wool: that indicates a garment in a different category, which provides less warmth and felts sooner.

Does a long coat suit someone who is short?

Yes, under two conditions: wear it open over a vertical line - trousers and sweater in the same tone - and do not cinch it at the waist with a belt, which would divide the figure in two. If you are still unsure, a midi length, just below the knee, creates the same elegant effect without the risk of making you look shorter.

How do you wash a wool coat?

Do not wash it at home. Brush it with a bristle brush every two or three wears, air it out after wearing, and take it to the dry cleaner once a season, at the end of winter before storing it. Blot fresh stains with a damp cloth without rubbing: friction felts the fabric fibers and leaves a mark more noticeable than the stain.

What is the right coat if I buy only one?

A belted single-breasted coat in a blend containing at least 70% wool, with a midi length and in a neutral color - camel, midnight blue, or dark gray. It is the style that suits most body shapes, works over a dress as well as jeans, and never goes out of style. If you live in a very cold area, choose the same style in a long version.

Editorial team Vittorio Citro Boutique, Roccapiemonte. We have been selling fashion since 1917.

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