Materials guide · Shearling and fur
Genuine shearling is sheepskin or lambskin tanned with the fleece still attached: the label will say “shearling”, “lamb shearling” or “sheepskin”. Synthetic versions list a textile fiber, almost always polyester, sometimes acrylic. Terms such as “shearling effect,” “eco,” “faux fur” or “imitation fur” indicate an imitation; “fur” or “sherpa” alone tell you nothing. If the composition isn't listed, ask about the garment before buying it.
Let's look at the numbers from our own shelves. In early October, we reviewed the details for all the fur-trimmed outerwear we sell: there are 42 pieces. Six declare animal fur, 17 synthetic fur. The other 19 use wording that isn't enough to tell.
The label's words, one by one
Shearling and shearling originally mean the same thing: the skin of a shorn lamb, with the suede side out and the wool inside. In the trade, however, “shearling” has broadened in meaning and now also appears on garments made entirely of polyester: we even have one described as “faux shearling.” What matters is what comes after the word.
Sherpa is a fabric, a curly fleece that imitates shearling wool: it's the lining of the Levi's Type III denim jacket. Faux fur, faux fur and imitation fur are synthetic by definition. Fur effect describes the look, not the material: it's almost always synthetic, but the composition isn't listed for 7 of our pieces, so we can't assume.
When you have the garment in your hands, there's one foolproof test: separate the pile with your fingers down to the base. If there's a continuous layer of leather underneath, smooth or suede-like, it's shearling. If there's a woven fabric backing, it's synthetic. The reverse is just as helpful as the front: an unlined shearling garment reveals the leather, while a synthetic one reveals the base fabric.
Women's shearling: what's genuine and what's synthetic
Declared shearling is limited to two pieces today: the Emporio Armani aviator jacket in 100% lamb shearling, with the wool visible on the collar, cuffs and hem, and the Ruti Peuterey bomber in nappa leather with a shearling collar. These pieces are heavier, very warm and should be treated like a leather jacket.
Among the women's styles that specify their materials, the rest are synthetic, and that's where the choice lies: Twinset lists six synthetic styles, followed by Pinko, Marella, Emporio Armani, Tricot Chic. Explore the full selection of women's fur and shearling. For tips on wearing them without overdoing it, we've written about animal print and the mob wife aesthetic.
Available now
Fur, teddy and shearling
MarellaMarella MACRO jacket in elegant printed faux fur
TwinsetWomen's Faux Fur Bomber Jacket
PinkoPinko Gravina faux-fur jacket in Fox
Emporio ArmaniWomen's Faux Fur Hooded Caban Coat
TwinsetWomen's Faux Fur Jacket with Ombre Print
TwinsetWomen's Faux Fur Coat with Collar
PinkoFur Blouson Jacket with Hood Pinko
MarellaWomen's Marella Fur Jacket with Zip and Pockets
Men's shearling: the honest answer
If you're looking for a men's shearling jacket, you won't find one here today. Among our men's outerwear, fur appears on four pieces, and none is described as genuine shearling: a Colmar Originals jacket in faux shearling, two Levi's denim jackets lined in sherpa, and the Peuterey Murdo leather jacket with a removable shearling collar. The product description doesn't say whether the collar is real shearling: if you'd like to know before ordering, write to us and we'll check the garment label.
For warmth without the weight of shearling, choose men's down jackets or a leather jacket with a warm collar from our men's jackets. If genuine shearling jackets arrive, we'll say so here and label them accordingly.
Hood trim: fox fur or faux fur?
This is where it's easiest to get confused, because a puffer's trim is small and the product details often just call it “fur.” The four Peuterey puffers we carry are listed as fox fur, always detachable. The Colmar Originals puffers are listed as synthetic. For one Pinko puffer and three MC2 Saint Barth jackets, the listing just says “fur”: ask us before ordering and we'll check the garment label for you.
One practical detail: the detachable trim comes off for washing the puffer and can be put back on afterwards. That's why it's worth choosing this way, whether real or synthetic. The other styles are among the women's puffer jackets.
The boutique's advice. Don't choose between real and synthetic based on warmth alone. Sheepskin is warmer at the same thickness, but it's heavier, doesn't handle heavy rain well, and requires specialist cleaning. Synthetic is lightweight, handles water better, and costs less to maintain, but direct heat can damage it. For city wear, with short journeys and public transport, synthetic usually does the job. For those spending hours outdoors in dry cold, sheepskin has no rival.
Where real sheepskin really belongs: on your feet
If there's one sheepskin item we sell every day, it's the UGG boot. Of 78 UGG styles in stock, 47 mention sheepskin in the product details: as the upper, lining, insole, or even just a detail. The L'Ultra Mini has a pre-treated sheepskin upper that resists water and a 17 mm sheepskin lining.
The same label rule applies here: “sheepskin” on the upper doesn't mean sheepskin on the insole. Many styles have a lining or insole made from UGGplush, 60% recycled wool and 40% lyocell, which is warm but isn't sheepskin. To care for them, see our guide on how to clean sheepskin UGG boots.
How to care for them: real and synthetic need different care
Real shearling should not be machine-washed or immersed in water. Blot stains with a barely damp cloth, brush the pile with a soft brush, and use a cleaner that treats leather and skins for end-of-season cleaning. If it gets wet, hang it on a wide hanger to dry, away from radiators: heat dries out the hide, making it stiff and causing it to crack.
Synthetic versions can be washed often, but only as directed on the care label, and heat is their enemy: no tumble drying, ironing or radiators, because polyester fibers curl and never become soft again. Revive flattened pile with a wide-tooth brush, brushing in the direction of the pile.
For both, the same end-of-season rules apply: use a wide hanger, a breathable cotton garment bag, never plastic, and leave space around the garment so the pile does not stay flattened for six months.
Frequently asked questions
How can you tell if a jacket is real shearling?
Check the composition label: real shearling is listed as shearling, lambskin or sheepskin; synthetic versions list polyester or acrylic. With the garment in hand, part the pile down to the base: real shearling has a continuous hide underneath, while synthetic versions have a fabric backing.
Does shearling mean sheepskin?
Originally, yes: shearling is sheared lambskin with the wool attached. Today, however, the word is also used for polyester imitations, often described as “imitation shearling” or “faux shearling.” The composition matters, not the name.
Is sherpa shearling?
No. Sherpa is a fabric, a curly fleece that imitates shearling wool. It is commonly used as a lining in denim jackets and casual jackets.
Is faux shearling warm?
It keeps you warm, but less than real shearling of the same thickness, and it retains heat less effectively in windy conditions. On the other hand, it is lighter, less vulnerable to rain and easier to wash, following the care label.
How do you clean a shearling jacket?
Not in a washing machine or in water. Blot small stains with a barely damp cloth and brush the pile dry; for a full clean, use a cleaner specializing in leather and skins. If it gets wet, dry it on a wide hanger away from heat sources.
Can faux fur be washed?
Often, yes, but only as directed on the care label, in cold water and without a vigorous spin cycle. Never tumble dry, iron or place on a radiator: heat permanently curls synthetic fibers. Restore the pile with a wide-tooth brush.
Edited by Vittorio Citro Boutique, Roccapiemonte. We have been selling fashion since 1917.
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