Mou Eskimo: how they fit, which height to choose, and how to style them

Brand guide · Mou

Mou is a London-based brand, founded in 2002 by Shelley Tichborne on Portobello Road, and owes almost all its fame to one style: the Eskimo, a double-face sheepskin boot with hand-crocheted wool stitching running along the upper. The brand is clear about fit: choose your usual size, unless the individual product page says otherwise. One caveat applies to all sheepskin: Mou boots are water-resistant, but not waterproof.

A note from our boutique. The Eskimos arrived in October: the 18, 24 and 40, with glitter or rhinestone logos, wool-embroidered stars, buckles, and the Mini Eskimo Platform. You can find all the Mou styles we stock in our boutique, with sizes updated daily, on the Mou shoes page. Here, we explain how they're made, how they fit, and which one to choose.

Eskimo: how the boot that made Mou famous is made

Shelley Tichborne designed it in 2006, two years after Net-a-Porter had named her brand one to watch. The upper is made from double-face sheepskin: suede on the outside and wool on the inside, a single material that serves as both outer and lining. Wool stitching, worked by hand with a crochet hook, joins the panels and serves as its signature. Many “Mou-style” boots imitate this stitching; on a Mou, it is real wool, hand-worked, with a raised texture you can feel beneath your fingers.

It has a lightweight EVA and rubber outsole, designed more for the city than the mountains. The number after the name indicates the height in centimetres: the Eskimo 18 is an ankle boot, the 24 rises above the ankle, and the 40 is a tall boot. Over the years, sneaker versions, sheepskin slippers and mules from the Winter Bio line, and a summer collection of sandals and clogs have joined the Eskimo range.

Low, mid or high: which Eskimo to choose

The 18 is the easiest to wear. It works under straight-leg jeans that fall over it, or with cropped jeans that show it off, and does not require a change to your wardrobe. It is also the quickest to put on and take off, which matters if you wear it for short trips.

The 24 is the middle ground: it covers the ankle, leaves the calf free and works with both skinny jeans tucked in and leggings. The 40 calls for a clear idea of how you will wear it. It works very well with a midi skirt or a knitted dress; with trousers, only if they are fitted and tucked into the shaft. Some versions also have a hidden wedge that adds a few centimetres of height without being visible from the outside.

How Mou boots fit and which size to choose

Mou recommends choosing your usual size, unless the product details specify otherwise. That's the right place to start. In practice, there are two things to know that apply to any sheepskin boot. At first, the wool is dense and feels a little tight across the instep; with wear, it settles and the boot stretches slightly. And the Mou styles we carry come in whole sizes, with no half sizes.

For this reason, with sheepskin boots, if you are between sizes, we suggest choosing the smaller one, as we do with UGG Classics. For sneakers and sandals, simply choose your usual size. There should be about half a centimetre of space at the toe: if your toe touches, the size is wrong, even if the rest fits snugly. Try them on with the socks you will actually wear, because thick wool can change the fit of the same size. For EU, UK and US size conversions for the brands we carry, see our size guides.

What we have in the boutique this winter

Our best-selling style is the Eskimo 18 with a glitter logo on the heel, available in more colours this year. Alongside it are the Eskimo 18 with a rhinestone logo, with wool-embroidered stars and in animal-print pony hair, the Eskimo 24 and the Eskimo 40, the tall boot, with a rhinestone logo or buckles.

For those who want a little extra height, there’s the Mini Eskimo Platform, which elevates the boot on a high sole, and the New Inner Wedge line, with a hidden wedge inside, also available in a hiking lace-up version. There are three sneakers: the Eskimo Sneaker with glitter logo, the New Eskimo Sneaker and the Sneaker Eskimo Bounce, on the Bounce line sole.

For home and short outings, there’s the Bounce Clog, also with a back strap, the Eskimo Slipper slippers and the Winter Bio slide, all in shearling. Available sizes for each style can be found in the Mou collection.

Available now

Mou in the boutique now

MouMou Speed Eskimo Lace-Up Sneaker in LeatherMouNew Eskimo Sneaker MouMouMou Speed Eskimo Suede Sneaker in ShearlingMouBoots Women's Mou New Inner Wedge Suede with Hidden WedgeMouMou New Hiking Lace-Up with Inner Wedge in ShearlingMouBoots Women's Mou Eskimo 18 Wool Stars & Rhinestones in ShearlingMouBoots Women's Mou Eskimo 18 Glitter Logo in ShearlingMouMini Eskimo Platform Boot Mou

Mou boots for girls

They’re the adult Mou styles in miniature. L'Eskimo Kid has the same exposed stitching and double-face sheepskin; the Eskimo Infant is the bootie for babies; the Eskimo Slipper Backstrap slipper has a strap behind the ankle to keep it securely on the foot. These also come in whole sizes, and available sizes are listed on each product page.

Mou or UGG: what really sets them apart

It’s the question we’re asked most often, and the answer isn’t “one is better.” They’re both sheepskin boots, both warm, and neither is waterproof. What differs is their construction and character.

Mou feature hand-stitched wool seams, a softer silhouette and an artisanal, almost boho feel. UGG Classic boots have a more structured shaft, sharper exposed stitching and a range of heights from the Ultra Mini, the shortest, to the Ultra Tall with its 38-centimetre shaft. Several UGG styles are pre-treated to resist water and stains: they’re not waterproof, but light moisture is less likely to mark them.

For sizing, the advice is the same: choose your usual size and, for Classic styles, size down if you’re between sizes. The Tasman is an exception, though, as it gives very little: our sizing guide UGG explains the fit of each style.

How to wear them with jeans and skirts

With jeans, there’s one rule: either tuck the leg into the boot or let it fall cleanly over the top. Halfway, bunching over the edge of the shaft, it hides exactly what you want to show: the stitching. Skinny and slim straight jeans go inside; wide-leg straight jeans go over the boot, and that’s when a low height works best.

With a midi skirt or a knit dress, the 24 and 40 work better than you might expect, as long as there’s little leg showing between the hem and the boot shaft and you wear opaque tights. With leggings and a long sweater, the way Mou are really worn from Monday to Sunday, any height works.

How to clean and protect them

Mou’s care instructions are simple and worth following to the letter. Before wearing them for the first time, apply a protective spray specifically for suede, after shaking it well. Then brush them regularly with a soft-bristled brush, even when the boots look clean: it removes dust before it gets into the leather.

For stains on suede, the brand recommends a stiff-bristled brush and a sponge with lukewarm water and mild shampoo. Let them air-dry, never on a radiator. They can handle rain and light snow, but not puddles. UGG sheepskin is cared for in much the same way, and we’ve written a step-by-step guide for it.

If you’re considering winter boots in general, not just sheepskin styles, our fall-winter boot guide compares them by type and climate. You’ll find the full selection among our women’s boots.

Frequently asked questions

How do Mou shoes fit?

Mou recommends your usual size unless the individual product page says otherwise. Sheepskin boots feel snug at first and loosen with wear, so if you’re between sizes, we suggest choosing the smaller one. For sneakers and sandals, choose your usual size. There should be about half a centimeter of space at the toe.

Are Mou boots waterproof?

No. Mou describes them as water-resistant: they can handle rain and light snow, but not standing water. The brand recommends applying a protective spray specifically for suede before wearing them and letting them air-dry away from heat.

What does the number in Eskimo 18, 24, and 40 mean?

It is the boot height in centimeters: the 18 is an ankle boot, the 24 rises above the ankle, and the 40 is a tall boot. The main difference is how you style them: the sheepskin, and therefore the warmth, is the same.

Which is better, Mou or UGG?

They are both sheepskin boots, warm but neither waterproof. Mou has hand-sewn wool stitching and a softer silhouette; UGG has a more structured shaft and a wider range of heights, from Ultra Mini to Ultra Tall. It is a matter of personal taste rather than quality.

How do you clean a Mou boot?

Use a soft-bristle brush often, and apply suede protector spray before the first wear. For stains on Mou suede, the brand recommends a stiff-bristle brush and a sponge with lukewarm water and mild shampoo. Then leave them to air-dry.

Are there Mou boots for girls?

Yes. We carry the Eskimo Kid in double-face sheepskin with visible stitching, the Eskimo Infant for newborns, and the Eskimo Slipper Backstrap with an ankle strap, in whole sizes.

Where can you buy authentic Mou boots?

From the brand or an authorized retailer, such as our boutique. All the styles we carry, with sizes updated daily, are on our Mou shoes page.

Editorial team at Vittorio Citro Boutique, Roccapiemonte. A family in fashion since 1917.