Mou Shoes: Eskimo boots - how they fit and what to wear them with

Tutto ciò che devi sapere sulle scarpe MOU: guida completa

Brand guide · Mou

Mou is a London-based brand, founded in 2002 by Shelley Tichborne on Portobello Road, and owes almost all its fame to one model: the Eskimo, the double-face sheepskin boot with hand-crocheted wool stitching running along the upper. On fit, the brand is clear: choose your usual size, unless the individual model's product page indicates otherwise. One warning applies to all sheepskin: Mou boots are water-resistant, but not waterproof.

A note first, because we are writing this guide from a store, not from a catalogue. When we updated it in early October, Eskimo boots were not available in the boutique: in the Mou collection, only a few slippers and mules, two sneakers and a few sandals remained, in limited sizes. We are explaining how they are made and how they fit anyway, because customers ask us every winter. If you need a warm boot now, further down you will find what we actually have.

Eskimo: how the boot that made Mou famous is made

Shelley Tichborne designed it in 2006, two years after Net-a-Porter had named her brand one to watch. The upper is made of double-face sheepskin: suede on the outside and wool on the inside, a single material that serves as both outer and lining. Crochet wool stitching holds the panels together and is its signature detail. Many “Mou-style” boots imitate that stitching; on a Mou, it is genuine wool, hand-worked, and you can feel its raised texture beneath your fingers.

Underneath is a lightweight EVA and rubber outsole, designed more for the city than the mountains. The number following the name indicates the height in centimetres: the Eskimo 18 is the ankle boot, the 24 rises above the ankle, and the 40 is the tall boot. Over the years, sneaker versions, sheepskin slippers and mules from the Winter Bio line, and a summer collection of sandals and clogs have joined the Eskimo.

Low, mid or high: which Eskimo should you choose?

The 18 is the easiest to wear. It fits under straight-leg jeans that fall over it, or with cropped jeans that leave it fully visible, and does not require you to change your wardrobe. It is also the quickest to put on and take off, which matters if you use it for short commutes.

The 24 it is the compromise: it covers the ankle, leaves the calf free, and holds both tight jeans tucked inside and leggings. The 40 calls for a precise idea. It works very well with a midi skirt or knitted dress; with trousers only if they are fitted and worn inside the shaft. Some versions also have an internal wedge that adds a few centimetres of height without being visible from the outside.

How Mou fit and which size to choose

Mou recommends choosing your usual size, unless the product page states otherwise. That's the right starting point. In practice, there are two things to know that apply to any sheepskin boot. At first, the wool is full and feels slightly tight across the instep; with wear, it compresses and the boot expands slightly. The Mou we carry are also available in whole sizes only, with no half sizes.

For this reason, when it comes to sheepskin boots, if you are between two sizes, we suggest choosing the smaller one, as we do for UGG Classic boots. For sneakers and sandals, however, choose your usual size. There should be about half a centimetre of space at the toe: if your toe touches, the size is wrong even if the rest fits well. Try them on with the socks you will actually wear, because the same size feels different with thick wool. For EU, UK and US conversions for the brands we carry, see the size guide.

Mou or UGG: what really changes

It's the question we're asked most often, and the answer isn't “one is better.” They are two sheepskin Boots, both warm, neither waterproof. What changes is the construction and the character.

Mou have hand-stitched wool seams, a softer shape and a handcrafted, almost boho feel. UGG Classic boots have a more structured shaft, more defined visible stitching and a range of heights ranging from the Ultra Mini, the shortest, to the Ultra Tall with its 38-centimetre shaft. Several UGG models are pre-treated against water and stains: they are not waterproof, but light moisture leaves fewer marks.

Women's UGG Classic Ultra Mini in Portobello shearling, low boot
UGG Classic Ultra Mini in the Portobello version: low shaft, shearling lining, pre-treated upper for water resistance.

Our sizing advice is the same: take your usual size and, for the Classics, the smaller size if you're between two. The Tasman is an exception, however, as it stretches very little: the rule for each model is explained in our UGG size guide.

What we have in the boutique when you need a warm boot now

If you're looking for shearling and warmth from a Mou, the alternatives we currently have belong to two families. They are not copies: they are different boots that meet the same need.

Shearling UGG boots offer the closest feel against the foot. Among women's UGG boots, the Classic Ultra Mini is the shortest and easiest to wear; the Classic Mini II and Classic Mini Heritage have a slightly taller shaft and come in chestnut, the brand's signature brown. With its 38-centimetre shaft, the Classic Ultra Tall is the closest to a tall Eskimo boot.

Women's UGG Classic Ultra Tall in chestnut shearling, tall boot
UGG Classic Ultra Tall in chestnut: 38-centimetre shaft, shearling lining and insole, EVA sole.

Moon Boots for when the cold is real. They have nothing to do with shearling: these are insulated après-ski boots with a rubber sole and laces at the top of the shaft to adjust its circumference. The Icon Glance has a universal construction, with no right or left foot, and is sold in size ranges, 35-38 and 39-41: within each range, the fit can be adjusted with the sock and the lace. For the 35-38 range, the insole measures 22.5 centimetres, as stated in the product details. The Moon Boot collection also includes the Icon Low with a platform sole.

Moon Boot MB Icon Glance black, snow boot with laces at the shaft
Moon Boot Icon Glance black: a construction with no right or left foot, laces with a shaft stopper, rubber sole.

And the Mou styles we carry. The Winter Bio slipper is double-face shearling with the same crochet stitching as the Eskimo, only without a shaft: for home, or short outings with a wool sock showing. If you are looking for a clog, the UGG clogs offer the same idea with a wider range of sizes.

How to wear them, with jeans and skirts

With jeans, there is one rule: either the trousers go inside the boot, or they fall cleanly over it. Halfway, gathered at the edge of the shaft, they hide the very part you want to show: the stitching. Skinny and slim straight-leg jeans go inside; wide straight-leg jeans go over the boot, which is when the low height is the better choice.

With a midi skirt or a knitted dress, the 24 and the 40 work better than expected, provided there is little leg showing between the hem and the shaft and the tights are opaque. With leggings and a long sweater, which is how Mou boots are really worn from Monday to Sunday, any height works.

How to clean and protect them

Mou's care instructions are simple, and it is worth following them to the letter. Before the first outing, apply a specific suede-protective spray, after shaking it well. Then use a soft-bristled brush regularly, even when the boot looks clean: it removes dust before it gets into the leather.

For stains on suede, the brand recommends a stiff-bristled brush and a sponge with lukewarm water and mild shampoo. Leave it to air-dry, never on a radiator. They can handle rain and light snow, but not puddles. UGG shearling is cared for in much the same way, and we have written a step-by-step guide for it.

The boutique's advice. Before the color, choose the height. If you buy the tall boot thinking of wearing it with a skirt, you will often end up wearing it with jeans all winter and realize that the 24 would have been more comfortable. Think about what you wear four days out of seven, not what you see in the photo.

If you are considering a winter boot in general, not just a sheepskin style, the autumn-winter boot guide compares them by type and climate, and the full selection is among the women's boots.

Frequently asked questions

How do Mou shoes fit?

Mou recommends your usual size, unless the product page for the individual style states otherwise. For sheepskin boots, which feel snug at first and settle with wear, if you are between sizes, we suggest choosing the smaller one; for sneakers and sandals, choose your usual size. There should be around half a centimetre of room at the toe.

Are Mou boots waterproof?

No. Mou describes them as water-resistant: they can withstand rain and light snow, but not standing water. The brand recommends a specific protective suede spray before wearing them and air-drying them away from heat.

What does the number mean in Eskimo 18, 24 and 40?

It is the boot height in centimetres: the 18 is an ankle boot, the 24 rises above the ankle, and the 40 is a tall boot. The main difference is how they can be styled: the sheepskin, and therefore the warmth, are the same.

Which is better, Mou or UGG?

They are both sheepskin boots, warm but neither waterproof. Mou features hand-stitched wool and a softer shape; UGG has a more structured shaft and a wider range of heights, from Ultra Mini to Ultra Tall. It is more a matter of taste than quality.

How do you clean a Mou boot?

A soft, thick-bristled brush and protective suede spray before the first wear. For stains on Mou suede, Mou recommends a hard-bristled brush and a sponge with lukewarm water and mild shampoo. Then leave them to air-dry.

Where can you buy authentic Mou products?

From the brand or an authorized retailer, such as our boutique. In the Mou collection, you will find the available styles with updated sizes; if the style you are looking for is not available, write to us and we will tell you what could replace it.

Vittorio Citro Boutique editorial team, Roccapiemonte. We have been selling fashion since 1917.

1 comment

Le scarpe di mia figlia indossate poche volte presentano le cuciture tutte sfilacciate, andrebbero usati dei materiali più adeguati per il costo che hanno.

Liliana rende •

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