How to choose · Dr. Martens
If it’s your first pair, choose the 1460: it’s the eight-eyelet boot that started it all, and it’s hard to go wrong with it. Choose the 2976 if you want a laceless ankle boot you can slip on in three seconds, the Jadon if you’re after a little extra height without a heel, or the Adrian if you need a low shoe that also works with pleated trousers. Each model comes with another choice that matters almost as much: the leather, because it determines how long the break-in period will be.
In the boutique, the first question we ask isn’t which one you like best, but where you’ll wear them and how patient you are for the first few weeks. Below are the four models, one by one, with the versions we actually stock in the boutique. The full selection is on the Dr. Martens page, split into women’s and men’s.
1. The 1460, if you want the original
The name comes from its release date, April 1, 1960. Eight eyelets, yellow stitching on the welt, an AirWair heel loop and an air-cushioned sole: it works with jeans as well as a skirt and visible socks, making it our recommendation for anyone who’s not yet sure how they’ll get on with the brand.
The same 1460, however, can feel very different depending on the leather. The 1460 Smooth is the classic version: smooth, firm leather, stiffer at first and requiring a proper break-in period. The 1460 Pascal in Virginia leather has the same shape and fine-grain leather that feels soft from day one: we recommend it if you’ve had blisters from a pair of boots before. For men, there are versions in Ambassador leather, in black or dark brown, with a pebbled, lightly oiled finish that softens with wear. You’ll find all the versions we stock in the boutique on the Dr. Martens 1460 page.
2. The 2976, if laces slow you down
The 2976 is Dr. Martens' Chelsea boot: no laces, two elastic side panels, and the same sole and stitching as the 1460. The brand has made it since the 1970s, and it's the easiest model to dress up: it works better under tailored trousers than any combat boot, because its sleek profile lets the hem fall over it without catching on the eyelets.
Its drawback is the flip side of its advantage. With no laces, the fit depends entirely on the elastic panels and the size: if your heel lifts during the fitting, don't expect to fix it with a thicker sock. Here's exactly what we have available: the low-cut 2976 in Ambassador leather, in black and dark brown, in men's sizes; in women's sizes, there's the platform-sole version in Polished Smooth, the brand's classic polished leather. Chelsea boots from all brands are grouped under chelsea boots.
3. The Jadon, if you want height without a heel
The Jadon is an eight-eye boot raised on a 4.7 cm platform, with a grooved sole and the yellow stitching of the original model. It wears like a combat boot, with one difference to bear in mind: the thick sole is heavy, and you'll feel it on your first few outings. In return, it elongates your silhouette with straight-leg trousers and a short skirt more than any other model in the range.
We carry it in two versions: the Jadon, with a zip on the inside of the ankle so you don't have to unlace it every time, and the Jadon III in Pisa leather, a medium-weight milled leather that's soft to the touch. Both are among our women's combat boots.
If the Jadon feels like too much, there are two alternatives we currently have in good supply. The Sinclair sits on a 4 cm platform, has a removable zip and is made from Milled Nappa leather, pebbled and soft from the first wear. The Molly, with a 4 cm platform and 5 cm heel, is made from satin-finish Buttero leather and comes with a second pair of satin ribbon laces.
4. The Adrian, if you’re looking for a shoe rather than a boot
The Adrian is Dr. Martens’ tassel loafer: kiltie fringe across the instep, two tassels, and the same thick, welt-stitched sole as the combat boots. It works where a combat boot would be too much, with chinos and a jacket, and handles November rain better than a loafer with a leather sole. It fits true to size; it may feel tight across the instep for a few days, then the leather gives.
There are three versions that really change the character. In black Polished Smooth, it’s the most formal. In burgundy Arcadia leather, the polished surface reveals its undertones with wear. The Adrian Ben in Orleans leather, waxed pull-up, changes tone where it creases and rests on the BEN sole, with a more deeply sculpted tread. For men, there are also Ambassador styles in black and brown. Find them all in Dr. Martens loafers, alongside other brands in tassel loafers.
The boutique’s advice. If you’re undecided between two styles, choose the leather first, then the style. A 1460 in Virginia and a 1460 Smooth are the same shoe on paper, but offer two different experiences in the first month. If your heels are sensitive or you need to walk a lot right away, start with a soft leather. If you want the classic, be prepared to break in the Smooth: in return, the leather molds to your foot and stays that way.
Available now
The Dr. Martens styles we’re talking about, available now
Dr. Martens1460 Smooth Combat boots
Dr. MartensAdrian Loafers in Polished leather
Dr. MartensAdrian Ben Tassel Loafers in Orleans leather
Dr. MartensJadon platform Boots
Dr. Martens1460 Boots in Ambassador leather
Dr. MartensDr. Martens Adrian Loafers in Arcadia leather
Dr. MartensDr. Martens Molly platform combat boots
Dr. MartensDr. Martens 1460 Boots in pebbled leather
Smooth, Virginia, Ambassador: the leathers featured on the product pages
The leather name is listed on every product page, and it's worth checking before choosing a color. Smooth is the original, with a smooth, compact finish: it's the stiffest at first and needs two to four weeks of gradual wear. Polished Smooth is the same leather with a glossy finish; care for it with a damp cloth and a wax-based polish.
Virginia has a fine grain and feels soft from the start; the Nappa leather on the Sinclair needs minimal breaking in. Ambassador sits in between: hammered, sturdy, and better with age. Then there are leathers made to develop marks, like waxed Orleans or the Brookline's Crazy Horse: the patina they develop with wear is why people choose them.
Sole and height: what changes under and around your foot
The classic air-cushioned sole is found on the 1460, 2976, and Adrian. The Quad is the Jadon’s serrated platform sole. The Bex is the middle ground, a little higher and more sculpted than the classic sole without reaching platform height: we have too few of them to recommend right now, and we'll say so rather than try to sell them to you.
Then there's the shaft. The 2976 stops at the ankle and disappears under trousers. The 1460 comes up a little higher and shows with a skirt or turned-up jeans. The 1B99, with fourteen eyelets, Virginia leather, and an inside zip, reaches mid-calf and is the boot for those who wear dresses and skirts. On the other hand, men looking for a low-cut everyday boot should take a look at the Brookline Chukka in our men's ankle boots.
Sizing: one rule for all four
1460, 2976, Jadon, and Adrian fit the same. Dr. Martens only makes full UK sizes and fits true to size: if you're a whole size, take your usual size; if you're a half size, size down to the nearest whole size, as the leather gives a little as you break them in. On the 2976, the elastic helps you pull it on, not tighten it. The conversion chart and measurements in centimeters are in our Dr. Martens size guide.
For breaking them in, the brand’s advice is the same as ours: thick socks, heel protection, just a few hours a day at first, and a leather conditioner such as Wonder Balsam. We explain why the yellow stitching is more than a decorative detail in our guide to choosing boots; how to wear them in our styling guide; and where the sole comes from in our brand history.
Frequently asked questions
Dr. Martens 1460 or Jadon: which is better?
The 1460 if you want a classic boot that’s lighter and easy to wear with everything. The Jadon if you want height: it’s an eight-eyelet boot on a 4.7 cm platform, which feels more noticeable on your first few outings. Choose the same size in both.
Should you size down in Dr. Martens 2976?
No: they fit true to size, like the other models. If you’re between sizes, go down to the nearest whole size, as you would with the 1460. When trying them on, check the heel: without laces, only the elastic panels keep them secure, and if your heel lifts, they’re too big.
Which Dr. Martens are most comfortable straight away?
The soft leather styles: Virginia on the 1460 Pascal and 1B99, and Nappa on the Sinclair. They need very little breaking in. Classic Smooth is the stiffest and takes two to four weeks of gradual wear, with thick socks and heel protection.
What’s the difference between Smooth and Virginia leather?
Smooth is Dr. Martens’ original leather, smooth and firm: stiff at first, then it moulds to your foot. Virginia has a fine grain and is soft from day one. The shape of the model doesn’t change; the first month does.
Can you wear Adrian loafers in winter?
Yes. They have a PVC sole and the Goodyear-welted construction of the boots, so they handle rain better than a leather-soled loafer. They leave the ankle exposed: in really cold weather, you’ll need a thick sock.
Are the women’s and men’s 1460s different?
The shape is the same: the sizing and some leathers differ. In our selection, Virginia versions use women’s sizing, Ambassador versions use men’s sizing, and black Smooth comes in both.
Vittorio Citro Boutique editorial team, Roccapiemonte. We’ve been selling fashion since 1917.
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